Putting the switchgear on a ribbon cable is a great idea. I think I’ll have to give it a go, my next module would benefit from it. It gives the builder plenty of flexibility as to the user interface, and if you put dual footprints on the board, the user can choose which kind of pots they use, and even whether to use right angle or vertical jacks.
Great work.
Hey thank you! I really appreciate that…
This was all thanks to you guys and all the help!
And yeah, my idea for the board was that the “motherboard” could go anywhere and the remote boards could be placed where you needed them (A modular, module 
)
This way you’re not limited to only a certain type of layout, which can happen with PCBs with the jacksockets/switchs/knobs all on the main board.
Granted, that’s a great design, saves a lot of materials, but for the build I’m working on, it’s nice that once the eurorack panel is done, it could also be used in a kosmo format, or even something else!
So simple… so brilliant… ahhhh bloomin love this community!
or substitute a different knobs board so they can choose how far apart they are. What’s shown here looks like they’re maybe 15 mm center to center… I like them much further apart than that. Heck, the smallest knobs I tend to use are 19 mm diameter, and there needs to be space between knobs to get your fingers around them!
Of course for Eurorack you don’t have a lot of vertical space to work with. But you can use all the horizontal space you want. It’s only the Eurorack culture that insists modules should be as narrow as physically possible.
Yeah I’m not a fan of the eurorack design now that I’ve got one… it’'s a complete pain in the A to make something for and there’s virtually no depth, I think I’ve got maybe 60mm tops…
I can’t wait to switch to kozmo format. I’m just not in a place I can do that yet, so that was the idea behind this board, make it so that I can just change out the remote boards but don’t have to completely redo the main board just to change modules
Cool thing about designing like this is it’s more flexible though!
Dunno if you guys really worry about that sort of thing, but I updated the silk screen to fix where I forgot the + sign for the power filter caps, put plenty of space between the pin headers for larger sizes (just in case) and also flipped the knobbies board 16 pin header so all the cables lay flat (was an oops there)
Silk screen does still show 5.0 on the main board btw, didn’t think that mattered enough XD
Oh! And one moooooore thing (jackie chan adventures reference), I also re-arranged the knobbies, they were supposed to start with Tune, then FM etc
Finally have some quiet time (Been hectic here the last couple days)
This is the front panel reveal basically. XD
Decided while I was still within the return period, I returned the rackbrute for a full refund (they were really awesome about that) and used some of that money to get an FC power supply. Already have the wall-wart on hand.
And before I got ANY modules, especially since it can be expensive (as this project has already been 
)
Decided to go straight to Kosmo format design.
This also means that once that return is fully processed (I.e. I have the money), I want to buy a few of Sam’s modules to support the museum, definitely going to get a VCADSR and a VCF to start… anyway…
I don’t mean to ramble, it’s just this whole starting point was complicated… It was originally going into a rackbrute which has very little mounting depth at all, and once I stacked all 5 boards, hell just the stack was in front of the mounting rails at the deepest point (not including the insanely shallow spot in front of the power bus, and even less space in front of the molex connector… ugh… talk about crap design(the rackbrute)…
Anyway… The point is, this panel is 20x20cm, and I wash my hands of eurorack before I’ve even started … Here’s what I’ve got though. Yes it was supposed to be funny XD
I’ve also included the files for it, just because it matches the boards I made.
Is it a buffered multiple for syncing o’ da VCOs? How are you planning to sync the PWM? Does it have VCAs in it?
Each board is it’s own entire VCO, just that the module I was building, happened to have 5 of them inside of it stacked up with stand-offs XD
no 
Ahh right I see. I had thought it was a multiple board for splitting signals going off to other VCO modules. My bad.
You say Kosmo, but from the labeling I infer the 6.1 mm holes on the right are for jacks, so are you using 3.5 mm jacks? That’s fine, you do you, but it’s not Kosmo, which uses 6.35 mm (1/4") jacks.
I’m aware of the typical jack size/knob size. Just that it was built around the money already spent, instead of buying a whole array of knew jacks, then designing a new jacks board XD
Just meant I only had to buy 1 board, instead of having to also redesign another board and buy 40x6.35mm jacks
Just meant that it’s Kosmo size in that it’s 20cm tall and will fit the Kosmo rack.
@devicex builds Kosmo modules but with 3.5 mm jacks instead, it can be done. You can also mix with adapters and jumbler panels.
I thought about making it so that they all shared knobs at least, but I didn’t want to use more op amps and have it be stuck together. This way it stays modular within the module. So like if I don’t like the design, I can just do new jack/knobs/front panel, don’t have to redo the brains 
At least… that was my logic. There might be a better way to design this. But again, I’m not experienced enough to have that insight yet.
But I’m working on it
They look great!
I print 1900h clones from Thingiverse:
I print them upside down with the front of the knob on the bed of the printer. For them to look good the bed has to be perfectly level - if the nozzle is too close to the print surface they look squished but too far away then the first layer doesn’t stick properly and they resulting strings of plastic spoil the look of the knob.
I just hot glue them on to the pots once I’m sure a module is finished but if I ever need to remove them they prise off with a screwdriver relatively easily(put some masking tape on the panel first to avoid scratching it.)
It would be interesting to put an LED in a hole in the panel directly below the pot shaft, and print a bigger translucent knob to cover the LED, so you could have light up knobs.
Are you using PLA for them? PETG does have that translucent shine, so I could be wrong.
Transparent PLA in yellow
And yeah omg it was hard to get it to print right…
These are printed top down as well, only way I knew it would print without support material 
But agreed, consistency is important, even if they’re cheap
Plus, the LED thing is a great idea!
EDIT:
Chonkin big’un’s ;D
But… but…
So twiddly!
The last knobs I printed looked very shonky (technical term) so I opened a can of plasti-dip and dipped them to coat. They looked smashing.
